Unofficial Green Howards Regiment Reenactor

g.wheeler@worldnet.att.net

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(under construction - further corrections to follow)

The gang: Green Howards Capture Nazi Armored Car

Green Howards Handbook (For Reenactors Circa 1991)

TABLE OF EQUIPMENT

All equipment is P37 (pattern 1937, adopted 1938) unless noted, not P44. Equipment may be British, Commonwealth, or Belgian manufacture, but should be as close to British design as possible. You should purchase early war equipment where possible, as it fits more scenarios. Items are numbered in order of importance generally.

CLOTHING

Basic equipment:

1. Helmet, Mk.I: "Doughboy" type shallow tin hat, camouflage net preferred, olive drab color. The wide brim on all sides, parallel to the ground, works well to deflect rain and snow away from the neck. Interestingly, the strap has khaki covered metal springs rather than elastic, probably because of a war-time shortage of rubber. Do not use the late war "turtle" helmet unless period is correct (1944 or later). The turtle helmet was deeper, and is recognizable by its irregular lower rim shape and better side coverage.

2. B.D. (Battle Dress) "Blouse": "brown serge" material, a greenish brown wool, short tight fitting jacket. Attaches to pants with buttons to form a streamlined coverall look, similar to an old fashioned ski suit. Provided with an integral "belt", similar to the American Ike jacket. The British call a men's shirt a blouse. As buttons between trousers and blouse often popped loose, the space is often covered with the web belt, even in "walking out order." The "brown serge" color is more brown than green. Late and Post War colors were more green and should be avoided. Canadian Battle Dress was of a better quality cloth and cut, but was usually more green, and should be avoided unless there is no alternative.


Front closure and patch pocket buttons should be either all exposed, or all concealed. Post war types (combination of exposed, concealed buttons and open only collar) are not permitted for our purposes. Early war battle dress used concealed buttons, but later in the war exposed buttons were used for economy and speed of production. Post war battle dress used a combination of exposed buttons for patch pockets, and concealed front buttons, and need to be revised if you wish to use them. Size may be marked in terms of the soldier's height and waist circumference. Officers' collars were lined and kept open, worn with a shirt and tie. The Enlisted Men's collars were normally unlined and supposed to be kept closed. Presumably they were not expected to know how to tie a necktie or keep a shirt collar clean and ironed. A minimum of insignia is required. Shoulder titles are the most important as they are valuable in creating Regimental pride and camaraderie. Insignia was not always worn in combat, but you should at least try to obtain that item. "Green Howards" regimental shoulder titles are sewn a short distance below the top seam of the shoulders. They are semi-circular red felt with white lettering. Formation Badges (Divisional Signs) if used, are placed one inch below the shoulder title on battle dress. Green Howards were part of the 50th (Northumbrian) Division. This patch consists of two intersecting red 'Ts' on a black square. This represents the Tyne, the Tees and Humber rivers of northern England where division members were recruited. Below this was placed a 2" wide x 1/4" scarlet strip representing Infantry. Rifle regiments did not wear these strips or the shoulder titles however. Rank shall be worn only when earned through the group, and shall be kept to a minimum.

Note that the term "tunic" to describe British battle dress is incorrect. The term tunic generally refers to a loose fitting jacket worn with the shirt tail out, such as a Safari jacket, certain German uniforms, or those worn by the ancient Greeks or Romans.

3. B.D. Trousers: "brown serge" material same as B.D. Blouse. High waisted pants, with characteristic map pocket on the left leg. The map pocket should be located in the front of the left thigh. It is not located to the left of the trouser seam as it was on post war uniforms. The 1949 pattern British trouser can be worn only with the proper alterations (map pocket moved to front, etc.) The map pocket is handy for holding ammo, maps, and sten magazines, though loose cartridges will make noise when you walk or crawl, and may give away your position. On the right front is a special pleated pocket for storing the field dressing. The other pockets are standard on men's pants.
Early model trousers and tankers trousers had a flap made to button at the bottom of the legs to keep them closely fitted. "Braces" (suspenders) are helpful in keeping the high waisted trousers up. Braces which button to the trousers are stronger and more authentic than the snap type. If used, they should be khaki, gray, white or other neutral color. The wool material retains much of its insulating value even when wet, helpful in cold damp rainy climates such as the British Isles. The natural oils in the wool also help keep out water, so don't over-wash.

4. Boots: black, pigskin (pebble grain), medium height, metal plates on sole. Avoid waffle soled hiking boots, moccasin toes, or jungle boots. Basic American combat boots and jump boots are acceptable. Original WWII British boots that fit would be hard to find. They were 6 or 7 eyelets high, and had hobnails and cleated heels. High tops are hidden by trousers and gaiters and are not a problem. Shoe laces were often laced so that the

outer lacings appeared horizontal. Socks should be dark colored. Boots should be well broken-in and should fit well. Rubber boots may be worn in snow.

5. K.D. (Khaki Drill) "Blouse": The British used the term blouse to describe a men's shirt or top. Any long sleeve khaki (tan colored) army shirt should do. British K.D. Blouses had two pleated patch pockets with flaps, and epaulets on the shoulders. Long sleeves should help those with an allergy to wool. Such persons also may wish to wear long underwear under their wool pants. Epaulets are sometimes helpful in keeping web gear on the shoulders.

6. Gaiters (leggings): Khaki canvas. British (2 leather straps), or Canadian (2 web straps).

Optional:

7. Soft Cap: There are two choices. F.S. (Field Service) caps are hard to find and were dropped in 1943. This side cap was not popular, but like the German cap, could unfold to cover the whole head. Berets were often used, but during the war they used the rather shapeless G.S. Cap. This beret, approved in 1943 was usually worn so that it covered half the right ear. Infantry used an olive drab, while armored used black color. Cap badges with the regimental insignia were used with either cap, and were located on the left front of the wearer.

8. Sweater: olive drab, woolen vee neck, Jersey (pull-over) or Cardigan (buttoned down front), optional. No patches. Sometimes seen under Battle Dress Blouse with tail out (though its not particularly attractive.) As a top I've been told it looks "very British." This could be an inexpensive alternative to Battle Dress for new recruits.

9. Overcoat, brown wool, optional. Useful for cold, dark weather, or standing in the rain, but rather bulky for use in reenactments.

10. Leather Jerkin, optional. Often used by artillery and other personnel. Used in WWI and WWII, and found to be very functional as work clothing.

11. K.D. Shorts, "Bombay bloomers", baggy, worn just above knees. Hot weather gear. Used with khaki knee high stockings (hose) or khaki leg tapes (puttees). Popular in North Africa,
especially with short sleeve shirt. May be used in North Africa or Italian campaigns, may have to custom made.

12. Gas Cape/Raincoat/Ground Sheet, oilskin, dark brown, turtle neck, one pocket, pack bulge in rear. Carried rolled-up under flap of small pack. If you do use one, be careful about carrying it during play, you may loose it.

13. Helpful accessories: English accent & vocabulary. If you need glasses use period eyeglasses, with small lenses, gold wire rims, no tinting. Some lens-grinding labs (not 24 hour) take your doctors prescription, will replace your regular glasses, and provide a second pair (for reenacting) at little extra cost. Safety glasses of some type are recommended for night battles. Also helpful are identification discs (G.H. dog tags serial numbers are 4379001-4435000), period wristwatches or leather wristwatch cover, period fountain pen or Eversharp pencil, British packaged goods (cigarettes, candy, food), bulging pockets, face shield netting/muffler, five o'clock shadow, bandages, knocked-out teeth, blood, mud and dirt, vulgar talk. If you expect to come across recently liberated villagers, a reenactor with a roving eye may want to bring along nylon stockings, candy bars, a peroid French/English phrase book and at least one condom...

Battles are not supposed to be a parade ground reenactment. For honor guard duty (such as Canadian Legion or public displays) however, clean shaven, well-cleaned, pressed, and shined appearance is needed. Do not clean your uniform too often, however, as it will loose its shape, become soft and wear out. You want to look and act like a soldier, not a teddy bear.

14. Generally not acceptable at any time: Tennis shoes, long hair, modern sun glasses, silkscreened tee shirts, earrings, flashy jewelry, digital watches, modern music, beards, Fu Manchu mustaches, unnaturally colored hair, anything out of its proper time, fast food, modern music.



WEB GEAR

Web Gear w/ Pack, Exterior

Purchase and use khaki colored web equipment where possible. Green and other colors were often used later in the war, and for special purposes. Web gear was often colored with a green, yellow, or black coating called "Blanco", which is very difficult to remove (with oven cleaner). However, for sake of uniformity and flexibility, use khaki.
Do not make the mistake of referring to olive drab as khaki. Olive drab is the color seen in American post war equipment. It is a muddy green color, used on many modern mailboxes. Khaki, on the other hand, is a tan or light yellowish brown color. It comes from the Persian word for dust. A set of khaki clothing were sometimes called "suntans" in WWII due to its color, especially in North Africa.

Basic equipment:

Web Gear w/o Pack Web Gear w/o Pack

1. Web Waist Belt, khaki color. Two inches wide, it is the foundation for the other gear. No velcro. A spare one is handy to have for "walking out order", wearing without the other web gear.

2. Universal pouches (or patrol pouches). Used to carry personal ammo, grenades, and loaded magazines for the Bren gunner. Make sure color of the pair matches. Various snaps and catches were used. Some had a small set of loops inside the top cover to attach clips full of .303 ammo. P44 pattern not allowed.

3. Web "braces". Not to be confused with the braces, which hold the pants up. Certainly not to be confused with the term "suspenders" which in England is something women use to hold up their nylons. Two required, one right and one left. Extras can be used to make haversack, or used on the water bottle for easier access.

Water Bottle & Misc. Equip. Misc. Equip.
4. Water Bottle (canteen), brown wool felt covered, cork stopper, blue or olive colored enameled steel. Harness accepts 1" straps. WWI version used 2" straps, and will not work. Various harness designs used, with snap, belt closure (first type), or fully web covered (second type) versions available. Use type illustrated if possible. Drink plenty of water when and after exercising strenuously, especially in hot weather or high altitude. I've tried cleaning the inside with vinegar. I left one outside in the desert for a year, and it still contained water.

5. Bayonet, Scabbard and Web Frog: compatible with rifle used, or used as a mine probe. The mine probe, No. 4 Mk I Rifle, and Sten Mk 5 use the No. 4 Mk I spike bayonet. The older rifle, No. 1 Mk III, used the No. 1 Mk III sword bayonet. This is not shown in the illustrations. Beginning Reenactors may wish to postpone bayonet purchases, as they cannot be used be unsheathed in play anyway.

6. Scabbard, to match bayonet.

7. Bayonet Frog: All British bayonets used the same web frog.

Optional:

Entrenching Tools entrenching tools

8. Entrenchment Tool Head. Forged iron original pick/mattock-type blade, or inexpensive shovel head if kept covered. The entrenchment tool set (items #8-10) is an accessory for more advanced reenactors, and is not required for beginners.

9. Entrenching Tool Helve (handle), with bayonet stud preferred. Varnished or painted or unfinished hardwood. Be careful as the handle of the "E tool" is easily lost in combat. The reason for having the bayonet stud is that it was sometimes used as a mine probe.

10. Entrenching Tool Cover, lined, with straps to attach helve. Some models have a strap to help keep the handle from sliding out to the right.

11. "L" Straps, khaki, left and right. Required for attachment of small or large pack to web gear. Allow packs to be removed quickly and easily from other gear during combat. Also allows these packs to be used independent of web gear. Main straps are 2", side straps are 1". Check illustrations to make sure they are attached correctly.

12. Small Pack. Often carried into combat, taken off easily for more mauverability. It is 10 1/2" wide, 9" high and 4" thick. A handy accessory for the reenactor hiding a camera and or lunch, but otherwise not required. Divided inside into three compartments for mess kit, water bottle, sweater etc. These dividers are often cut out, but they help the pack keep its shape and keep the gear quiet. Has short 2" wide straps with buckles at top. It can be converted to one-strap haversack or side sack by attaching a web brace.

Web gear with pack (interior view) Web Gear w/ Pack

13. Cross Straps for large pack. Crisscrossed around back of large pack (WWI fashion) to hold helmet to pack. These long 1" straps are also used to make a haversack or side pack of the small pack. They can also be used to compress your sleeping bag.

14. Gas Mask Bag, wide khaki haversack-style bag. It can also be worn on chest. Smaller green "lightweight gas mask" bag, introduced in 1944 may be used where appropriate. Bags were commonly used for carrying accessories. Original gas masks may be too fragile and valuable to use in reenactments. Some filters may contain asbestos, which we now know should not be inhaled.

15. Large Pack (1908), used when marching from camp to camp. Larger capacity. It is 12" wide, 12" high, 4 1/2" deep. Undivided inside. Handy for larger cameras, jackets etc.

16. Compass Pouch, with Compass, for compass men, officers and NCO's only.

17. Pistol Holster, for officers, NCO's and vehicle drivers only. For Webley .455 revolver or .38 revolver. Worn on left side of wearer, with compass or cartridge pouch on right. Lanyard around neck is attached to pistol.

18. Pistol Ammo Pouch, for use with pistol holster.

19. Officer's Haversack: very close in appearance to the small pack, although slightly smaller (12"x9"x2"). Use over one shoulder with one web brace. For Officers and NCO's only.

20. Map Case: khaki with plastic map cover and snap closures. For Officers and NCO's only.




See illustrations for layout of web gear.


KIT

Basic equipment for overnight tactical camp:

1. Sleeping Bag, civilian or U.S. Army in G.I. cover.

2. Gray Wool Blanket, (green or brown may also be used)

3. Enameled Cup, brown, green, or other neutral colors. Very valuable when we stop the battle at 4:00 pm to "brew up".

4. Food: "Bully-Beef" (boiled beef) canned meat, corned beef, kippered herring, sardines, tasteless thick white "biscuits" (crackers), "brown" (steak) sauce, American chocolate, tea, coffee, doughnut holes, bread, "bangers" (hot dogs), cheddar cheese (the English are not sophisticated cheese eaters), meat stew, British and Irish beer, rum ration, American "C" rations, Red Cross packages. British are not known for their good food, but we can make do for a weekend. You may also include baskets of liberated French wine, exotic cheeses, bread, eggs and live chickens where appropriate. Remove modern style labels. No plastics. Use of glass must be limited because of safety and disposal problems. Generally bring back any garbage you pack in, including empty cans.

5. Duffel bag or small foot locker. To contain gear in tactical vehicles or in battle zone. May depend on tactical situation and transportation. Germans will often use a large zippered sport bag for their uniform when traveling outside the battle area. As our British uniforms are less costly, and the public is not offended by seeing them, we often wear most of the uniform in transit or stuff them somewhere.

6. Mess Kit, rectangular, 2 piece nesting, tin-plated steel or aluminum. Wrap silverware inside with towel or extra socks to keep from rattling.

Optional:

7. Kit Bag, cloth carryall bag, various colors and sizes available, including white.

8. Cooking Set: Tea strainer, optional tea pot, solid fuel, alcohol, or Sterno stove, metal match case or lighter. Optional.

9. Jackknife, with one blade, can opener, marlin spike, checkered black grips were used, ring loop. Optional.

10. Shelter Tent, U.S. G.I.. In the future, the unit may purchase some or coordinate their purchase by individuals.


11. Field Dressing, small type carried in special pants pocket, larger type can be carried in helmet netting.

12. "Torch" (flashlight), green or brown painted sheet metal, several varieties, from model similar to bicycle lamp with blackout shield, to chest mounted similar to German, to cube shaped model with hood and colored lenses.

13. "Housewife" Bag, gray, khaki, or green cloth with pockets for brush, comb, toothbrush, razor, utensils etc. Rolls up, tied with string or strap.

14. Toilet Paper, G.I. type or small hand rolled units.

15. "Pull-Through" Cleaner. String and metal weight for cleaning rifle barrel.

16. Handkerchief or washcloth. Avoid white unless you plan to surrender.

17. Soap. Optional.

18. "Fags" (cigarettes), British or "old fashioned" looking American. For those who haven't kicked the habit. Be careful and responsible when smoking outdoors, and generally don't smoke on the move. Leader has authority to provide additional regulations or prohibit smoking entirely.

19. Chemist's wares: prescription drugs you may need, sunblock, aspirin, moleskin, first aid basics, contact lenses kit if you wear contact lenses.

20. Ear plugs, optional. It is your responsibility to protect yourself as you see fit. Avoid bright colored plugs. Hearing loss due to loud noise can be permanent. Often the damage appears slowly, and at first may be noticed in high frequencies only. Continuously "ringing" ears or difficulty understanding conversation in a crowded room is a symptom. Good hearing is often needed when stalking an enemy, and ear plugs don't help. Some models are available for hunters which allow hearing, yet
are supposed to stop the "sting" from gunshot noise. At present, ear protection which covers the ear is not allowed.

21. Literature: Period magazines, books, letters, postcards. Please remember, however, that it is easy to loose things in a reenactment, especially small or lightweight things.




WEAPONS

Rifle notes: an extra rifle magazine (10 round) is helpful accessory for quick reloading. As 303 cartridges have a rim, load the magazine such that each cartridge's rim is ahead of the last one loaded. Five round clips are also available. Some universal pouches have loops inside the cover that will hold loaded clips. Bandoleers were loaded with two clips per pocket with five pockets.
Beware of some blanks that may have "hang-fire". This is where delayed ignition causes the old primer to go off some time after the trigger is pulled. Blanks which use black powder require careful cleaning or the barrel will become corroded. Some types of blanks have powder granules that will blow out and may jamb the action.
A canvas breech cover was often used, which helped protect the action from dirt and blowing sand. It attached to the loop in front of the magazine, so that when it was opened, it would not fall off and become lost. They are often seen in photographs.
Some rifles can go off while you are crawling around or ducking around cover. They are loud and can damage hearing, so be careful, especially around others. Be sure you understand
how the safety works, and how to uncock your rifle.
The rifle is the basic weapon of the Green Howards. The following list of weapons is to be used with an eye to historical accuracy. It would not be realistic if too many people were provided with exotic weapons, so let's show some self-restraint.

Machine Gun and Semi-Automatics notes: revolvers and bolt-action rifles do not need a blank adapter. Machine guns and semi-automatics, however need a blank adapter so that sufficient back-pressure is formed in the barrel for the action to operate. As our machine guns are rented from a licensed prop man, that will already be installed. However, if you purchase your own semi-automatic (full-automatics are almost impossible to own in California), you should know that it will need an adapter. One method is to thread the inside of the barrel such that an Allen screw (with a hole drilled through it) is inserted inconspicuously just inside the end of the barrel. Experimentation may be needed to determine the hole size for a particular gun and blank combination.
With all semi-automatics and full-automatics, learn how to keep it clean, how to clear a jamb, how to load it, its idiosyncrasies, and how the safety works.

Pistol notes: only vehicle drivers, Officers, and NCO's are allowed to carry pistols. Revolvers do not need a blank adapter, and .38 caliber blanks are very easy to find. Many British pistols used a lanyard to connect it to the holster, and prevent it from being lost.

1. SMLE (Rifle, Short, Lee-Enfield) No. 4 Mk I; Cal .303. The basic weapon of the Green Howards. Recognizable by a naked length of barrel that extends past the stock and sights. Do not use jungle carbine (No. 5 Mk I) in European scenarios. Some old lend-lease items marked "property of U.S. government" are available. Standard arm of the Green Howards. Uses spike bayonet.

2. SMLE, No. 1 Mk III; Cal .303, end of barrel does not extend past stock (blunt nose cap). Also used in WWI. Uses sword-type bayonet.

Sten Sten Gun Mark 2

3. Sten Mk 2 Submachine gun, or Sten Mk 2S reproduction semi-automatic carbine with dummy silencer; 9mm. For officers, vehicle drivers, etc. The Sten Gun is susceptible to dirt in the magazine, which will cause it to jamb. The magazine housing can rotate so that the ejection port is protected from dirt. Do not hold your left hand on the magazine, like they do in the movies,

it can cause it to jamb. If the bolt is forward and the gun is dropped in such a way that the bolt goes part way back, a round may be loaded and fire accidentally. On some guns, the bolt handle can be pushed-in in this position to make it safe. Other models of Sten Guns may be used if the period is correct (Sten Mk 5; Arnhem and after.)

4. Bren Gun; .303 Cal, light machine gun. Chinese version in another caliber also acceptable.

5. Webley Revolver, any model, although .455 Mk 6, and .38 Mk 4 are common. Much easier to find blanks for the .38 however.

6. Thompson Submachine Gun, or civilian semi-automatic carbine version with 16" barrel; .45 Cal.

7. Victory Revolver; .38 Smith & Wesson Cal., blanks easily available. American lend-lease.

8. Browning High Power Automatic Pistol, 9mm, Nazi or Belgium captured equipment, or "borrowed" from British air crash. Uses same ammo as Sten. British web holster available.

9. German MP40 (or MP38), 9mm, submachine gun, captured. For commando missions only.

10. Mills Bomb (grenade). Rubber dummy grenades used for reenacting. May also be launched by custom made grenade launcher on rifle. American style (lend lease) Toy plastic grenades, filled with sand or rice, also may be used.

11. Vickers Belt-Fed Machine Gun, .303, water-cooled, with tripod (based on Maxim design). American equivalent in .30'06 may be used. Crew of three required. If the ammo is in disappearing links, be sure you start the ammo from the correct end of the belt, or it will jamb.

12. PIAT (Projector, Infantry, Anti-Tank) short spring-loaded bazooka like weapon. Special safety course needed for use.

13. Flame Thrower, U.S., uses water.

14. Satchel Charges, same weight as original. For knocking out pill boxes and armored vehicles.

15. Land Mines.

16. Boys Anti-Tank Rifle, .55. Semi-automatic version in .50 caliber available now, but the price is over $2,500.00. A very heavy and rather ineffective weapon, unpleasant to shoot. Troops said shooting an armored vehicle with one was like shooting peas against a window pane.

17. Patchett (Sterling) Submachine Gun, 9mm, or semi-automatic carbine version, Arnhem (experimentally) and after only.

18. Infantry 2" Mortar, custom-built for reenacting. Fires 2" raquetball (or tennis balls) by surgical tubing, blanks or liquid fuel ignition.

19. Eyeballs, Mk 2, a soldier's most important weapon.


VEHICLES

1. American Jeep, British roundal markings, or Allied star markings.

2. Armored Cars: Dingo, Damier.

3. Scout or Command Cars, White truck type (such as M3A1). Four wheeled version of the half-track.

4. Bren Gun Carrier. Small open-topped tracked vehicle. Somewhat impractical, but it might be fun.

5. Bicycles, folding & non-folding. Flat black or olive drab color, English type, with pump, racks, no chrome or shine.

6. Captured Kublewagens. British flag on "bonnet" (hood) for identification.

7. Troop Truck.


TABLE OF ORGANIZATION
(The following is preliminary and subject to change. Note the list below is somewhat inflated in rank from British Army standards. Although it was not unusual for units to be short of personnel, as the lower ranks often took the most casualties)

Rank Ratio:


Squad: 12 members minimum
1 Sergeant
1 Corporal
10 men (Lance-Corporals as assigned)


Platoon: 26 members minimum
1 Lieutenant
1 Company Quarter Master Sergeant
2 Sergeants (one per squad)
2 Corporals (one per squad)
20 men (Lance-Corporals as assigned)


RANKS

Recruit: entitled to wear regiment & division insignia after 6 months membership and 1 battle.


Lance-Corporal: 18 months membership, and 4 battles, interest and ability in special projects.


Corporal: 2 years membership, with 75% attendance at Green Howards battles. Good attitude, knowledge of history, initiative, good teamwork and rapport with members, ability and willingness to help with unit's workload, good conduct in the field.


Sergeant: Corporal's qualifications and good work history.


Lieutenant: (pronounced leff-tenant) Sergeant's qualifications with election by group.

 


Slang
BRITISH (& AMERICAN) WWII SLANG & MILITARY EXPRESSIONS


A rations Fresh food
Act Lively! Hurry up (Brit.)
American Yank, Yankee, GI, GI Joe, Joe, Colonials (Brit.)
ANZAC Australian and New Zealand Army Corps. (Brit.)
Artillery ears Nerve deafness caused by loud noise.
Artillery punch Alcoholic punch
As you were! Cancels previous command
baby shit mustard
B.E.F. British Expeditionary Force, portion of eld Force sent across channel
Balls up Total confusion, similar to American "everything is balled up"
Battery acid Mess hall coffee
Biscuits Crackers or cookies (Brit.)
Bitter mis-pronunciation of German "bitte" meaning "please"
Black Death Mess hall coffee
Blanco British trade name for color-cake used to color web equipment
Blanket Drill Sleep
Blighty Home (Brit.)
Blitz Bombardment (Brit.)
Blivit Nonsense word, used as profanity.
Bloke Guy (Brit.)
Blouse Jacket or shirt
Blue Water The strategy that England depend on it's navy & avoid contact with continental armies
Bob Half an English pound (Brit.)
Box Respirator Gas mask with canister carried in bag connected to face mask with hose
Braces Suspenders (Brit.)
Bugger off To stop "anal intercourse" (see Fuck Off)
Bully Beef English canned beef (Brit.)
Bum Butt
C Rations Combat rations, canned food, Cee Rats,
Charlie's Rats, Cees
C&E Clothing & Equipment
Canned Cow Canned milk
Capitol Good, grand (Brit.)
Casualties Unavailable for military duty due to injury, disease or death
Chit Voucher for money, scrip (Brit.)
Clown American (Revolutionary War) (Brit.)
Coal/Newcastle Expression: "That's like hauling coal toNewcastle"
Cooties Lice, crotch crickets
Copacetic Allright (Amer.)
Corned Willie Corned Beef
Corpuscle Corporal
CP Command Post
D-bar Emergency ration of chocolate with sugar,oat flour, vitamins, vanillin
Deep Shit Difficult situation
Desert Stove Tin can with sand & gasoline, or hole with water & some gasoline.
Dicey Chancey
Dive bombing Picking up litter
Donut Dollies Red Cross volunteers, biscuit bitches (Brit.)
Drop/socks Drop your cocks and grab your socks--get out of bed
Englishman Brit, Tommy, Limey, Someone who is either unfriendly or needs something
Excuse me Get out of my way. (Brit.)
Fag Cigarette
Fall in! Get into formation
Farb Far be it from authentic (reenactor slang)
Fart sack Sleeping bag
Field Force Portion of British Army immediately available (compare Territorials) (Brit.)
Flap Excitement or confusion
Football Soccer (Brit.)
Fraternization To associate with the enemy or conquered enemy
Frog Frenchman (Brit.)
FUBAR Fucked Up Beyond All Recognition
FUBB Fucked Up Beyond Belief
Fuck off Fuck you/get away (Brit.)
Fuck-Up Fouled up
Germans Boche, Fritz, Kraut, Heinie, Hun, Jerry, Fritzie, Hermann, Lugerhead, Katsenjamer
Good Show! Approval (Brit.)
Grid Map angle reading, a reading which does not correct for magnetic declination
Guard Order Equipment worn while on guard (Brit.)
Have a go Start something (Brit.)
Hit the dirt! Take cover
Hit the sack Go to bed
Home Guard Civilian army (Brit.)
Idiot stick Rifle or shovel
Illegitimis.. "Illegitimis non carborundum"-don't let the bastards wear you down (phony Latin)
Jerry British chamberpot, German (helmet) (Brit.)
Jink Weave to avoid gunfire
Joker Wise guy
Killed Bought the farm, bought it, cashed it in,
Kilroy Legendary WWII graffiti artist
King's English Proper English, as opposed to working class English or slang (Brit.)
Kit Personal effects (Brit.)
Knock it off! Stop it
Lager Vehicle camp (Ger.) (Law-gur)
Last post British term for taps, the call to retire for the night
Liberate To confiscate, commandeer, or loot an object
Live ammunition Service ammunition as opposed to blank
London/Brick Expression: "I'll bet London to a Brick that..."
Londonderry Air London derriere (sex) (Brit.)
Loo Toilet, latrine (Brit.)
Lorry Truck (Brit.)
Lucifer match
Mad minute Intense fire for short period
Mag Magnetic compass reading, magazine.
Marching Order Equipment worn in the field when marching (Brit.)
Mate Friend (Brit.)
Mess tools Eating utensils
Mil 6400 mils = 360 degrees, 1 mil angle is 1 unit off at 1000 units range.
Mount up! Get into vehicles
No guts no glory Something said just before "going over the top"
OD Olive drab
Order of the Shovel Mythical "Order of the Shovel" award (to be killed and buried)
Ossifer Officer
Overseas cap Cap which folds over belt
P.T. Physical Training (P.E.)
Pee Halt Halt in march to relieve oneself
Petrol Gasoline (Brit.)
Pigsticker Bayonet
Point man Lead man on patrol
Poontang Sex, or woman as a sexual object, French:"putain" - whore)
Potato masher German grenade
Pub Bar (Brit.)
Purple Shaft Mythical Order of the Purple Shaft with Barbed Wire Cluster
Quid English pound (Brit.)
Ranker Soldier serving in the ranks (Brit.)
Red eye Catsup (also "blood")
Rigamarole Rambling or confused, incoherent talk
Rise & Shine Get up
Sand Mess hall sugar
Sapper Military engineer (Brit.)
Saw! British pronouncement of "Sir!"
Seagull Mess hall chicken
Sewer trout Mess hall fish
Shat Shit (past tense) (Brit.)
Slit Trench Foxhole, hasty pit, fighting hole, funk hole
Smelly "Rifle, Short Magazine, Lee-Enfield"
SNAFU Situation Normal All Fucked Up
Sneak & Peak Recon
SOL Shit Out of Luck
SOP Standard Operating Procedure
SOS Shit On a Shingle, creamed chipped beef on toast, "creamed foreskins", Same Old Shit
Spanner Wrench (Brit.)
Spend a penny Urinate
Spit & Polish Attention to dress
Stand at ease! Similar to parade rest.
Stand Down Assume lower level of combat readiness
Stand To To be in position, waiting. From "stand to your arms"
Steel Pot American helmet
Stiff upper lip Inner resolve
Suntans Summer uniform, khaki colored cotton, tan color
Sweet Biscuit Cookie (Brit.)
T/O Table of Organization- number of men, rank, and assignment in unit organization
T/O & E Table of Organization and Equipment. T/O plus list of vehicles, weapons, & Equipment
Tallyho Enemy sighted (hunting call) (Brit.)
Tea Afternoon refreshment with strong tea and cake or cookies (eg. 4:00 or so)
Territorials British Territorial Army, auxiliary force similar to militia or reserves (not overseas)
The Continent The European mainland (Brit.)
Tin Hat British or WWII soup-dish, dish pan or pie pan shaped helmet
Tinclad Lightly armored vehicles such as half-tracks
To lay To aim a weapon
Tommy British soldier, from Thomas Atkins, British equivalent of John Doe
Tommy Cooker British tank (Ger.)
Torch Flashlight (Brit.)
Tosser Penis (Brit.)
Two Bits Thirty cents (Amer.)
Typewriter Machine gun (Brit.)
Unicorn Uniform
Verey Light Flare signal (Brit.)
Vicar Priest (Brit.)
Walking out Off-base, "walking-out order" is uniform used in town (Brit.)
Wanker Penis (Brit.)
Wizard Very good (Brit.)
1000 Yard Stare Sign of combat fatigue, wariness, concentration on peripheral vision


Phonetic Alphabet

(before 1955)

Usage: "This is Charlie company.."


A Able
B Baker
C Charlie
D Dog
E Easy
F Fox
G George
H How
I Item
J Jig
K King
L Love
M Mike
N Now
O Oboe
P Peter
Q Queen
R Roger
S Sugar
T Tare
U Uncle
V Victor
W William
X-ray
Y Yoke
Z Zebra

UNIFORM8.TXT
9/17/91 g.wheeler rev 12/1/94 transfer to html 7/13/99

Links to Green Howards Regiment Sites

Modern Green Howards Regiment
Official Green Howards Regiment Reenactors
Green Howards Museum, England
A WWII Action Account of the Green Howards
Green Howards Screen Saver (Shareware)
Other Green Howards Information & Links

 



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